Training
Start training your puppy the day you bring him or her home. Training and socialization play key roles in how a Maltese turns out. If you treat them like helpless babies or spoil/indulge them, they may end up over dependent, insecure, or bratty and yappy. Expect your puppy to show the same good manners as you would expect from a larger dog. Training and socializing are a “must” for your puppy to grow into a happy, well-rounded adult dog. Puppy socialization starts shortly after birth. When you get one of our Maltese babies, you can be sure that we have been diligently interacting, touching, holding and exposing your puppy to a variety of sights, sounds, smells, and routine household occurrences. Once your puppy has been fully vaccinated, as new owners, it is your job to teach your puppy that the world is a safe and happy place. Take your puppy to safe places, expose him or her to different sights, sounds, surfaces, humans and other animals, making sure your puppy is comfortable and having fun while doing so. Well socialized puppies are easier to train and trained puppies are easier to live with and enjoy. Your well trained Maltese will be a devoted family member and will bring you unlimited love and joy for many years.
Puppy Training Tips
Basic Commands
Puppies can and should learn basic commands (watch me, leave it, drop it, take it, down, stand, wait, sit, stay, come).
Keep Training Sessions Short
Keep puppy training sessions at around 5 to 10 minutes. Young puppies tend to have short attention spans.
Timing
Pick a time when you do not have other things on your mind and your dog is rested and alert. If you are planning to reward with treats, plan training around meal time. A slightly hungry dog is a motivated dog.
Choose Your Words
When beginning a training program, decide what commands you will use, such as sit, stand, stay and stick with them so your puppy will learn what is expected of him or her. Be consistent and mean what you say. Don't tell a puppy to “get down” when he's jumping on you if you also use the word “down” when you want him to lie down. “Off” is a better word to use in that situation.
Find a place that has the fewest distractions
Distractions will be a problem for many puppies. They simply don’t want to miss anything, especially something that might be more interesting than the task at hand.
Be a Good Leader
Be firm, patient, and consistent: Your dog is looking for you to be the pack leader.
Gentle, Not Harsh
Be very gentle with your training methods: Never ever Hit Your Puppy—All training should be positive. As with human children, punishing bad behavior is never as effective as rewarding good behavior. Punishment only serves to make your dog to be fearful.
Be Playful
Make your training sessions fun and entertaining: Play is what puppies do best.
Watch your Emotions
Never lose your temper--Stop if you feel you are getting angry: Maltese are sensitive. They have an uncanny ability to sense moods and will not understand your anger. Your anger will translate into fear in your puppy and a fearful dog is very hard to train.
Prepare a Bagful of Treats
Use very small treats changing it up often to keep your puppy from becoming full too quickly or bored. Treats can be purchased or you can use tiny piece of meat, or cheese instead. Most Maltese do just fine with praise, attention, hugs and kisses. Try a variety of methods and then use what works for your dog. Vary your methods periodically such as rewarding with food, games, toys and hugs. Your dog will like the challenge. If praise is what works best, use it enthusiastically, YES!
Keep their Attention
Use a low guttural sound in your voice or a simple “uh-uh” to get their attention—it works better than saying “no.” Say “Ready” or “Watch me," before any other command.
Loose leash Walking
Daily short walks are beneficial to your Maltese’s well-being, not only physically but mentally as well. Teach your dog to walk on a leash, at your side, without pulling. Use the command “Let’s go” instead of “Come” which is used when you want your puppy to come to you.
Keep your dog Groomed
Keep your small dog groomed and clean—an uncomfortable dog is not a happy dog and unhappy dogs are hard to train. See “Tips for Training a Puppy for Grooming”
Consider Puppy School
Socialization begins at birth continues throughout the puppy’s first year. Training and socialization are closely related and neither should be omitted. Training classes help with both socialization and learning commands. Consider enrolling your Maltese in a class.
House Breaking Tips
Your puppy should be started on house training the minute you bring him or her home. Have your supplies (treats, training pads, crate, exercise pen) in place and ready to use. Scheduling and consistency is very important in house training your new puppy. Puppies will naturally need to relieve himself upon waking, after playing and shortly after eating. A regular feeding/sleep schedule are important and help you predict when the pup will need to eliminate. Remember that a young puppy does not have complete control over its elimination - THE SMALLER THE BREED, THE MORE OFTEN THEY MUST GO. Frequent trips to the yard (or papers if you want a paper-trained dog) are very necessary in the first two weeks. Do not play or talk to the puppy during these outings, he or she is learning that this is the elimination time, not play time. Quickly bring your puppy, or carry him or her to the same area to do their business (using an exercise pen or leash to keep puppy where he or she is supposed to be). Give the command “go pee” or “go potty”. Once your puppy is ALL DONE his or her business, give LOTS OF PRAISE and/or TREATS to reinforce the behavior. If he or she doesn’t go after several minutes, put puppy back in his or her crate for a short time, and then try again later. Never leave your young puppy in their crate for more than 2-3 hours, during the day, because a puppy will not be able to hold it longer. If you must leave for extended periods of time, use an exercise pen to contain your puppy so he or she are not forced to relieve themself in their crate. Place their crate (door open), a training pad, water and toys inside the pen. Remove the bed from the crate until your puppy is using the training pad reliably. A very young puppy will not be able to hold his or her urine all night, so be prepared to take puppy out during the night. If possible, bring the crate into the bedroom at night. If your puppy wakes in the night and suddenly starts to whine, he or she probably needs to relieve themself. Quickly and quietly take puppy to the pee pad or outside to do his or her business. Immediately return your puppy to his crate- NO talking, NO treats, NO cuddling. Punishment for mistakes in the house in these early weeks doesn’t teach, and can cause behavior problems - the trick is to prevent the mistakes from happening in the first place! Remember that your love and approval are the most important things you can give your puppy - this is the best incentive used in any training.
Crate Training Tips
One of the first things owners teach their puppy is not to eliminate in the house. One very effective method -- the one used by most breeders and trainers -- is crate training. When used correctly, dogs naturally learn to love their crate as their own special place/ den and will seek out the crate when he or she wishes to be alone. The crate’s success as a housetraining tool is simple: Puppies will not soil their sleeping area if they can possibly avoid it. But remember that a puppy needs time to play. Use the crate when you can’t watch your puppy, but don’t overuse it. Crates come in many different styles and sizes. Choose one that will be large enough for an adult dog of your puppy’s breed to lay down, stand up and turn around in without difficulty. Many breeders use fiberglass airline crates. They are convenient for travelling but they do not fold down. Wire crates are a good option, they allow the dog to see out, and provide better ventilation than the plastic airline crate. They fold up and are fairly portable. Whichever crate you choose, put a familiar blanket or item of clothing inside and place it in a location close to other family members, to lessen the puppy’s anxieties. Move it from the kitchen or family room to the bed room at night so your puppy will always feel a part of his new family. Spend some time calmly trying to associate the crate with a good thing. A good strategy is to put special treats in a “Kong” and place it in the crate. Never push a dog into the crate, but entice him or her to walk into the crate to get the Kong by letting him or her smell the Kong before tossing it to the back of the crate. Let your puppy play with his treat inside the crate with the door open a few times. Once puppy is relaxed and comfortable, go ahead and close the door. Be prepared to stay close by for your puppy’s first experience with crate training – Hang out by the crate for several minutes, then go into a different room for a few minutes so she gets used to the idea of staying in the crate alone. At the first sign of a separation response, such as barking, whining or howling, intervene with a sharp “NO!”. Your puppy should associate the reprimand with his actions and stop. It may take four or five tries, but he or she will eventually settle down. Do not take a puppy out of a crate when he or she is fussing or they will quickly learn that if they fuss enough, they can come out. Once puppy is quiet, keep him or her in his crate for 15 minutes. When you return, don’t open the crate immediately. Instead, sit with her again for a few more minutes and then open the door. The key here is to make crating seem completely normal and avoid excitement. Praise your puppy when he or she goes into the crate, but keep it brief and ignore any excited behavior that he or she shows when taking him or her out. Put your puppy on his leash immediately after letting him or her out of the crate. Rush puppy to the training pad/door or carry him or her if puppy is small so he or she can avoid an accident (always take the puppy out the same door, the one you are going to want him or her to signal at as he or she matures). Watch to be sure your puppy does relieve themself. When puppy has accomplished that, give him or her lots of praise, and/or treats, take him or her back inside and devote some supervised play time with your puppy outside his crate. After 20-30 minutes of free time to play, put him or her back in his crate for a nap. If puppy cries, correct him or her. Because he or she is learning through association, consistency will help your puppy accept being in his crate after only a few tries. When your puppy has been quiet for an hour or so, repeat the process. Gradually lengthen the amount of time your puppy spends is allowed to play. By the time your puppy is five or six months old, he or she should be able to control themself for an hour or so between trips outside. The crate is also useful as an aid in curbing destructive behavior, such as uncontrolled chewing. As your puppy matures and proves they are capable of being loose in the house, give him or her that privilege. The crate itself does not stop your puppy’s need to chew when he or she is teething, so provide him or her with safe chewable toys and nylon or rawhide bones. If your puppy starts chewing on something other than puppy toys, respond with a sharp “NO!”, take the object away and replace it with an appropriate toy. The teething stage lasts about 8 months. By the time he or she is 8 months old, your puppy should be able to walk around the house for most of the day once he or she has been taken outside to relieve themself. By 1 year old , puppy should be mature enough to be trusted all night in the house. Keep your puppies crate set up with the door open anyway. He or she will have become attached to their “den” and puppy will seek it out when he or she wishes to rest undisturbed.
Training a Puppy for Grooming
Grooming your Maltese is important not only for looks but for the health of your dog. Training a Maltese to cooperate and enjoy a grooming session are an essential part of puppy training. Frequent short session, and plenty of praise, kisses and treats are key. Start by taking every opportunity to pick up your dog and sit them on the grooming table or surface you plan to use. Pet them gently, rub your fingers through their hair; touch their paws, tail, ears, and muzzle. Tell your puppy to “sit” or give the “down” command, which is the word you will use to teach him or her to lie down. Praise them if they respond and give a small treat. Allow your puppy to see and smell the grooming tools. Do this several times a day, gradually working up to introducing a brush. The first few brushing sessions should be brief, positive, and enjoyable. A human child-size brush with soft bristles is soothing to a puppy and helps train them to enjoy the experience. Your puppy may resist being brushed sensitive areas such as the groin area, under arms and paws. Be very gentle in these areas, but make it clear to the puppy that you will need to brush these areas too.